The unexpected - Stigmata, Nyamuk Wall

Having just sent Chess 4 days ago, I came back to Nyamuk today to work out on my next project, Stigmata.

Stigmata, 7b, 30m, 11bolts + anchor

2 cruxes at the bottom, one right after the first quickdraw a balancing problem, and the second crux is after the 4th draw where u need to hold a series of coin sized crimps and then launch to a huge jug from a 3mm crimp on your left hand and a sidepull crimp on your right.

The rest of the way up is all endurance, similar(albeit a little longer) to Le Futur.

I’ve attempted the route the same day I tried Chess for the first time, one is trying the crux moves, and then another topping the whole thing. That’s when I realised I need to train my endurance first cos I know the whole top part after the launch is going to be a problem for me. So I shift my focus to Chess first.

Today I planned to do the same, work out the cruxes and try and smoothen the endurance part. 

First time I tried is at about 10pm and the morning sun was scorching on my back so I can’t even get the 2nd crux done cos its so hot I got a headache 😅

The second time I tried I managed to top it again and learn the moves. But I tight on every draw.

The 3rd time I tried I was hoping to clean the cruxes and see how far I can sustain at the top. 

After I passed the second crux, the launch, I tried to rest the best as I can before gearing up the top part. And one moves after another, I feel like I can managed the pump well. And I managed to find a good position to rest. And when I got past the crack section, I started to think, Hey if I’m relaxed enough, I could probably send this thing today.🤷🏻‍♀️

So I breathe and try to relax and I send it!

It’s the total opposite with Chess where I expect to send it in a few tries but I don’t. And Stigmata, I expect I’ll take a while to send it, probably spend the whole next week to send it but I got it earlier than I thought. 

Thank God.

So I should probably think what am I going to work on the next week. Foreign Investment? Prophylaxys or straight to Osmosis?

All for the iconic roof - Chess, Nyamuk Wall

Eversince I send Pear, I have been looking at this route thinking I would totally enjoy climbing this one. The iconic roof is so inviting not mentioning the instagram-worthy shot when you’re cut loose -ing on the roof.😍😎

But the other guys advised me to straight away move to Harry’s Code first since it is the same style with Pear. 

So after I send Harry’s Code, I decide to not follow the Acan-Pian-Hatta send train by doing Stigmata, instead I wanted to do something on my own first, so I can experience the feeling of figuring out the beta all by myself. So I choose Chess.

Chess, 7a

9 bolts + anchor, sketchy slab start with slopers and pinches, until 3rd draw, overhanging until 7th draw, roof section, crack, crimps section then anchor.

2cruxes, one is going out from the roof, second one is from the 9th draw to the anchor.

Some don’t consider going out of the roof as the crux, so it depends on individual style and strength.

So last Saturday, I tried placing the draw first, expectedly I couldn’t get past the roof. The move going out from the roof feels too powerful to me. 

Then I tried again on Sunday, this time I managed to go out from the roof by jamming my knee, and I managed to place the quickdraw after the roof. Tbh the efficient way to save energy going out from the roof is by not cutting loose of your feet while on the roof. 🤷🏻‍♀️ So the cut loose is just basically for the ‘gram. 😅

After roof part’s done, I still have no idea how to navigate the crack that follows.

So I tried the move, and I managed to topped the route, I felt that its totally doable. We even got the roof shot on Sunday since everyone’s in the mood to climb and shoot.📸

Now that all the draws are placed, I tried again on Tuesday, I was like 92% confident that I can send it on Tuesday when after the first attempt I managed to clip the 9th quickdraw but fell when going to the anchor. But 2 tries after that, I still fell at the same place and got majorly discouraged.😅 I thought I could send it in few attempts but apparently I underestimated the second crux.

So I try it again today make sure I totally get the sequence of the crack, where to hold, where my feet goes, where to clip, how to do the crux move and happy I got to send it today.

So next, I will be back following their send train by projecting Stigmata. Wish me luck!😊

Continuing the momentum - Harry’s Code, Nyamuk Wall

Harry’s Code, 7b

10 bolts + anchor, Slab/face, crimps and pockets, 2 cruxes.

I thought after Pear I need to do several more different style of 7a climbs before projecting a grade harder, but the other advised me that even though Harry’s Code is 7b, but the style is super  similar to Pear that it is good to jump to it right away while you still fresh from Pear’s move. 

I gotta agree on the similarity. First 5 quickdraws are relatively easy, then the first crux starts, before sustaining to more pockets and crimps till the 9th quickdraw (second crux) after the 10th bolt to the anchor is easy jugs again, similar to Pear but both have long run outs to the anchor so be careful.

My strategy for this one is the same as Pear, to try and remember the sequence that suites me. But its trickier because if Pear the crux is only from quickdraw 5 to 6, Harry’s Codes crux are all the way from quickdraw 5 to 9. 😅 Here I learn not only to have a precise foot placement and best way to hold the crimps and pockets (microbeta), but I learned a subtle change in movement can save energy enough to last you through the anchor. 

This one was a challenge for me and I’m happy I managed to ‘unlock the code’.😊

So what’s next?