All for the iconic roof - Chess, Nyamuk Wall

Eversince I send Pear, I have been looking at this route thinking I would totally enjoy climbing this one. The iconic roof is so inviting not mentioning the instagram-worthy shot when you’re cut loose -ing on the roof.😍😎

But the other guys advised me to straight away move to Harry’s Code first since it is the same style with Pear. 

So after I send Harry’s Code, I decide to not follow the Acan-Pian-Hatta send train by doing Stigmata, instead I wanted to do something on my own first, so I can experience the feeling of figuring out the beta all by myself. So I choose Chess.

Chess, 7a

9 bolts + anchor, sketchy slab start with slopers and pinches, until 3rd draw, overhanging until 7th draw, roof section, crack, crimps section then anchor.

2cruxes, one is going out from the roof, second one is from the 9th draw to the anchor.

Some don’t consider going out of the roof as the crux, so it depends on individual style and strength.

So last Saturday, I tried placing the draw first, expectedly I couldn’t get past the roof. The move going out from the roof feels too powerful to me. 

Then I tried again on Sunday, this time I managed to go out from the roof by jamming my knee, and I managed to place the quickdraw after the roof. Tbh the efficient way to save energy going out from the roof is by not cutting loose of your feet while on the roof. 🤷🏻‍♀️ So the cut loose is just basically for the ‘gram. 😅

After roof part’s done, I still have no idea how to navigate the crack that follows.

So I tried the move, and I managed to topped the route, I felt that its totally doable. We even got the roof shot on Sunday since everyone’s in the mood to climb and shoot.📸

Now that all the draws are placed, I tried again on Tuesday, I was like 92% confident that I can send it on Tuesday when after the first attempt I managed to clip the 9th quickdraw but fell when going to the anchor. But 2 tries after that, I still fell at the same place and got majorly discouraged.😅 I thought I could send it in few attempts but apparently I underestimated the second crux.

So I try it again today make sure I totally get the sequence of the crack, where to hold, where my feet goes, where to clip, how to do the crux move and happy I got to send it today.

So next, I will be back following their send train by projecting Stigmata. Wish me luck!😊