Saturday, January 09, 2021

Continuing the momentum - Harry’s Code, Nyamuk Wall

Harry’s Code, 7b

10 bolts + anchor, Slab/face, crimps and pockets, 2 cruxes.


I thought after Pear I need to do several more different style of 7a climbs before projecting a grade harder, but the other advised me that even though Harry’s Code is 7b, but the style is super  similar to Pear that it is good to jump to it right away while you still fresh from Pear’s move. 

I gotta agree on the similarity. First 5 quickdraws are relatively easy, then the first crux starts, before sustaining to more pockets and crimps till the 9th quickdraw (second crux) after the 10th bolt to the anchor is easy jugs again, similar to Pear but both have long run outs to the anchor so be careful.

My strategy for this one is the same as Pear, to try and remember the sequence that suites me. But its trickier because if Pear the crux is only from quickdraw 5 to 6, Harry’s Codes crux are all the way from quickdraw 5 to 9. 😅 Here I learn not only to have a precise foot placement and best way to hold the crimps and pockets (microbeta), but I learned a subtle change in movement can save energy enough to last you through the anchor. 

This one was a challenge for me and I’m happy I managed to ‘unlock the code’.😊

So what’s next?


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