Having just sent Chess 4 days ago, I came back to Nyamuk today to work out on my next project, Stigmata.
Stigmata, 7b, 30m, 11bolts + anchor
2 cruxes at the bottom, one right after the first quickdraw a balancing problem, and the second crux is after the 4th draw where u need to hold a series of coin sized crimps and then launch to a huge jug from a 3mm crimp on your left hand and a sidepull crimp on your right.
The rest of the way up is all endurance, similar(albeit a little longer) to Le Futur.
I’ve attempted the route the same day I tried Chess for the first time, one is trying the crux moves, and then another topping the whole thing. That’s when I realised I need to train my endurance first cos I know the whole top part after the launch is going to be a problem for me. So I shift my focus to Chess first.
Today I planned to do the same, work out the cruxes and try and smoothen the endurance part.
First time I tried is at about 10pm and the morning sun was scorching on my back so I can’t even get the 2nd crux done cos its so hot I got a headache 😅
The second time I tried I managed to top it again and learn the moves. But I tight on every draw.
The 3rd time I tried I was hoping to clean the cruxes and see how far I can sustain at the top.
After I passed the second crux, the launch, I tried to rest the best as I can before gearing up the top part. And one moves after another, I feel like I can managed the pump well. And I managed to find a good position to rest. And when I got past the crack section, I started to think, Hey if I’m relaxed enough, I could probably send this thing today.🤷🏻♀️
So I breathe and try to relax and I send it!
It’s the total opposite with Chess where I expect to send it in a few tries but I don’t. And Stigmata, I expect I’ll take a while to send it, probably spend the whole next week to send it but I got it earlier than I thought.
Thank God.
So I should probably think what am I going to work on the next week. Foreign Investment? Prophylaxys or straight to Osmosis?
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