After I learned about DOMS, in June I decided to just do weight training once a week on Saturdays so It wont effect my weekday climbs. Now I felt better again, climbed better, my lifts just reached 80kg, my squats 60kg. And my weight increase from 53 to 56kg but I do feel lighter and stronger esp on dynamic moves and more confident in heel hooking. But still I see no difference in my climbing grade. I guess its true these weight trainings are not climbing specific training, but its just for your general health and strength. But I will maintain doing it once a week. Same as yoga for once a week.
Climbing wise, I finally send the Blue overhanging route graded 6C on the 17th. Have been projecting it since before pandemic. At least now I can say my strength DO improve. I thought I'm already at my best shape (climbing wise) before pandemic. But I did not managed to go past the crux on that blue route even after attempting many times. So if I can send it now, I must have improved. I don't know what, but something must have. I'd like to believ that anyway. Celebrate small wins right?
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