Post-Keteri fever

 Arggh so many nice things to talk about my Keteri trip, met my goal but malas nak transfer gambar ke laptop lagi😅

I'm in my resting mode still after I had my ganglion cyst remove right after Keteri, but I don't feel grumpy I didn't get to climb for 2weeks till my stitch got better, I just felt okay. So in short, it was a great trip.

I aim to send Keretapi,7a+ and Zamboney, 7b+. I sent both.

I also sent Jepun, 7a, and almost send Sama-Sama Orang Kampung, 7a, on the last day. 

I wanna talk about Keretapi and Sama-Sama Orang Kampung actually. So that will be a separate post each. haha

Day 1 Saturday, 18 Dec

No climb for me.

When we reached on Saturday, some of them went straight to climb but I did not have energy to climb since I didn't manage to get any sleep the night before, trying to be a good co-driver, even when they stopped at RNR I didn't managed to shut my eye. 

Day 2 Sunday, 19 Dec

Tried Keretapi for the first time.

I straight away jumped to Keretapi on Sunday, with everyone, straight away couldn't do the crux move. Watching Pian and Acan do to figure out the beta.

Day 3 Monday, 20 Dec

Sent Jepun.

Since he's done with Keretapi and Zamboney, Pian wanted to go to Mata section, Kev's project Mata Timur,8b+ is also up there, everyone else wanted to go, so I went along. Najjar was projecting Jepun, so me and Diddy joined in. Moves were bouldery and 2 dynamic moves on the first 2 quickdraws, but very doable. First attempt my hand was sweating profusely, but after lunch, I send it after I get over the dyno parts. Berg says it should be downgraded to 6C right after I send it (darn it) but for me, if you have to place a quickdraws with you, and considering the dynos and the long run up to the anchor it is a (somewhat) soft 7a.

Day 4 Tuesday, 21 Dec

Back on Keretapi, still no luck.

I continue Keretapi again Tuesday, getting restless at this point cos Pian sent it days ago, and Acaan sent it today. And I still couldn't figure out the crux move. Can't do Pian's beta, can't do Acaan's beta, and after I saw Apiz try the crux part, I got a little idea, so I tried again a few times, and I managed to do the crux part, but still quite shaky and the moves are not solid and not really controlled.

So I'm getting stressed. So when Apiz planned to go jalan-jalan the next day I'm somewhat reluctant cos I came here with goals and I've been here almost half the time and I haven't get one of my goals yet.

Before I came, I thought I'm gonna be spending just one or two days on Keretapi and the rest I'll be spending on projecting Zamboney. But now its day 4 and I haven't send Keretapi.

Day 5 Wednesday, 22 Dec

Sent Keretapi.

On Wednesday, everyone else went to Mata, except Berg and JC and Diyan, cos JC and Diyan's projects were down here, after I set up draws on Diyan's project route, Siti, and helped her project it, Berg helped me with Keretapi. I managed to figure out the crux move, rest for about 45 minutes, and on the next attempt I sent Keretapi. Will write more on this on separate post. 

Later that same evening, I tried Zamboney for the first time and call it a day.

Day 6 Thursday, 23 Dec

Sent Zamboney.

I was somewhat positive from sending Keretapi yesterday and was in a good mood to start projecting Zamboney. 

Many people were there at the time, Wanjek just arrived, Najjar came back to settle Zamboney, cos he fell going to the anchor on Day 4 or something and had to go back to KL. Acan was also projecting Zamboney since the day before. I had to work in the morning so I spend most of the morning at nearby restaurant  working, and I missed Najjar and Acaan send the route. 

After lunch and after my job was done, I work on Zamboney again, workout all the hard parts, and after I felt okay, I rest, and then I try it again and I sent it. 

Really glad.

I worked on Keretapi, a 7a+ route for 3 days with countless attempts but send a 7b+ route in a day with 3 attempts, grades ARE subjectives but of course, it depends on the risk on the routes and the climber's style. Zamboney have a couple of monos, continuous hard-but-doable moves the entire route.

Keretapi only have that one freakin hard crux. 

So I felt relieved that I send my goal routes on Day 6.

Day 7 Friday, 24 Dec

Leisure climbs.

The next day I just leisurely follow everyone, Mekwan came from Kedah that day so I accompany her to climb what she wants, I sent Lorenz, a 6A+ route, follow them to Robot Wall, had caving experience along the way, belay others again and after we came down from Robot Wall, had a chance to try Belly Button Window for the first 6 quickdraws and got an awesome sunset shot there.

Day 8 Saturday, 25 Dec

Attempted Sama-sama Orang Kampung.

They plan to go to Bukit Jernih in the afternoon, but in the morning Pian Acan and me plan to project Sama-sama Orang Kampung since Wanjek onsighted it the day before. So I felt that its doable to be sent in half a day.

So Pian flashed it, and Acaan sent it, so for some reason I have this huge out-of-no-where made-up responsibility to sent the route at the time. The route was effing long, the hard moves were just the first 4 quickdraws, monos and crimps again, long story short, I did not send it, I fell going to the anchor. And I cried like a crazy person. That will be a different blog post. heh.

So after lunch we went to Bukit Jernih and the boys tried King of North, a newly bolted 8a route so I just watch the show.

Day 9 Sunday, 26 Dec

Bye Keteri.

They head back to KL, I continue to mend my wounded heart in Langkawi with Chaoi. hahaha

Overall its a great rock trip for me including the crying part. hahaha

Pics will upload later