Adrenaline Fest 2018 - December 2018
Format - Endurance Competition, Points collection. 4hours.
12 Top Rope routes and 12 Boulder routes, climb (and top) all the routes as many time as you can. One try per route per round
Category - I mistakenly joined the Open category, cos I thought Novice is for students. (This is my first time ever registering for comps, so twas an honest mistake).
My thoughts - I can top 11 out of the 12 top rope routes but only 3 out of the 12 boulder routes.
My mistake I think is that I started with top rope routes where the queuing lines are longer. I wasted a lot of time waiting in line.
Result - I placed 5th out of 7 women in Open category. My points are a mere 116 for a 4 hr time.
Strategy - At the time my strategy for next year is to do boulder first to reduce the waiting time, so I can do more routes.
Pertandingan Mendaki Peringkat Negeri Selangor - May 2019
Format - 4 boulders in qualification, 3 boulders in final.
Category - Novice
My thoughts - Did ok in quali but mental pressure got the best of me in finals. Couldn't top the last boulder during final cost me the win.
Result - 1st in Speed, 2nd in Boulder.
Strategy - Get the right state of mind, be in control of my own emotion.
Volume Control - July 2019
Format - Point collection. 40 boulders, climb the best 15 problems in 2 hours.
Category - One category
My thoughts - This comp is part of South East Asia League, and its kind of a big thing and it attracts a lot of Singaporeans climber. I am 90% recovered from my wrist injury at the time but I'm still a bit cautious because I haven't do boulder for 2 solid months after the last comp cos of the injury.
I'm actually clueless during the day and have no idea where to start. I planned to start with the lowest point boulder and just move up from there, but a girl said to me, just go for the ones with more points. And another one of my weakness is that I don't know how to decide if the routes are doable to me. I spent a long time making decision or looking at others. My guideline is that if I see a girl that I think is stronger than me can't do a route, I will not be able to do it. So I just stick to the lower points route, and I don't even get 15 routes by the end. I get only 14 done.
Its a terrible thing because by the end, I realized there are routes that other girls can't do that I can do. People strength and weaknesses are not the same. So comparing with others is a big no-no. Good thing is I met new girl climbers there.
Result - 17 out of 17 girls.
Strategy - I should target mid range point boulders instead of lower point boulder. And learn to decide which route that I can do.
Selangor Showdown -12 October 2019
Format - Point collection. 40 boulders, climb the best 10 problems in 4hours.
Category - One category
My thoughts - Since this is similar format to Volume Control, I already targeted to aim for the middle points routes instead. Managed to get all 10 problems done but there are 3 higher points routes that I've tried that could've give me more points if I were able to finish them. 2 of them is a slab. One is a sloper top hold that I could not match.
Result - shared 10th out of 25 girls.
Strategy - Work on slabs, foot work, pistol squats and YES, slopers.
Adrenaline Fest 2018 - Oct 2019
Format - Endurance Competition, points collection. 3.5hours.
Category - Novice
My thoughts - I can top all 12 top rope routes but still only 3 out of the 12 boulders.
This time I started with boulder first, but I still have to wait in line for the top rope routes. The top rope routes are super easy that almost everyone can do them, so to be on top of the pack the deal breakers are the boulders.
Result - I placed 5th out of 34 women in Novice category. My points are 156. I'm a bit bummed not to get podium this time around.
Strategy - This time around my strategy is just be way better at boulders and get the endurance down pat.
National Sports Climbing Competition - Oct 2019
Format - 6 boulders in qualification. Flash Format. 30 minutes
Category - Interstate
My thoughts - I got 3 Tops and 4 zones out of the 6 in quali. The no.3 until 10 girls are all having 3 Tops, the difference are just on zones and number of attempts. I burned a whopping 12 attempts to top and another 10 on zones. I was relieved to top the 3rd boulder but I had a feeling that I can at least have zone on the remaining 2. All and all I was in the right state of mind, its just that I need to be more relax, not burning too much attempts and just get stronger in general. One of the girl who made final is the girl who shared 10th place with me during Selangor Showdown. So the thoughts of me being in a final is not too far fetch of an idea.
Result - 10th out of 35 girls
Strategy - Route Reading and just train/boulder more.
So in general, I still need to do more boulders to get use of the various movement and style of bouldering.
One more thing I noticed, starting 2018, there are many girls competing compared to the previous years. Most likely because of many new bouldering gym opening. So the current field is getting bigger with like 20 or so familiar faces. Not like couple of years ago where you knew like 5 big names and they are the ones who compete in almost every competition. Now, there actually is a competition.
And after getting to know some other girls, I learned how to be competitive. You just cannot join a competition and not be competitive. The competitiveness is what makes you train harder, train seriously and effectively.
And getting better at boulder equals getting better at lead. And there is where the ultimate goal is.
Looking forward to the next boulder comp and hopefully I got the opportunity to join a lead comp someday.
Now its time to revise the training plan.
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