Sunday, December 20, 2020

Breaking into the 7 - Pear, Nyamuk Wall


Pear, 7a. (Redpoint)

Nyamuk Wall, Batu Caves, Selangor.

28m, 7 bolts + an anchor, face, pockets and sharp crimps. One crux.

The first 4 bolts are fairly easy, the crux starts after a big undercling and the 5th bolt, when you are going to the 6th and 7th bolt.

You need to have a very good foot placement and very precise way to hold all the crimps and finger pockets. All I did was get the sequence down pat and memorise it like my life’s depend on it.

After 7th bolt is a far run out to the anchor but all are good holds you just need to rest after the 7th bolt before powering up to the anchor. I literally took a solid one minute rest there.

I was secretly hoping to send this on my birthday (14th Dec) but that would be one of those times when I was being overambitious.😅

Anyhow glad I did it. 

Now on to the next project.

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